So, here’s a fun fact for you: You might have heard (even from your dermatologist) that SPF 30 is all you need. Well, guess what… that’s not entirely true. Surprised? Didn’t think so.
While SPF 30 blocks 96% of the UV light, SPF 50 would block 98%. You might think that’s a small difference, but in the way sunblock is measured, that’s actually 50% more! Meaning, the higher the SPF the better! I know you’re dying for more facts like this so here is the 411 on sunblock:
Last week, I spent over 3 hours listening in on a virtual meeting with the California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology (BBC). If you’re not familiar with the BBC, they are an agency that oversees consumer safety and gives direction to 650,000 California licensed beauty providers on how to safely reopen after months of being closed. In the past, the BBC agency has been known to be highly inefficient and quite outdated (i.e. until recently, their website hasn’t been updated in nearly three years) up until listening to the virtual meeting, I had no clue how bad the situation REALLY was.
One of the major highlights I picked up from the virtual meeting was how the BBC has no plans to monitor the beauty industry when it comes to social distancing, PPE, or anything related to COVID-19 reopening procedures. I'll give my two cents about this further down, but for now, let me give you an insight into what occurred over the past few months.
- April 28th: After nearly two months of being in lockdown Governor Newsom announces a 4-phased reopening plan - placing the beauty industry in phase 3 and says that it will take months, not weeks.
- April 29: PBFC (Professional Beauty Federation of California) meets with Deputy Cabinet Secretary and State Board Executive Officer to explain how additional months of lockdowns will be untenable and could undermine the very basis of our licensed, state-regulated industry (which resulted in devastated salon businesses, stylists' livelihoods, and students’ dreams).
- May 6th: PBFC informs the media of intention of filing a lawsuit against the state and BBC.
- May 7th: Governor Newsom responds with a bombshell assertion that the first community spread of COVID-19 occurred in a nail salon (this was news to our 39 million California residents including the health department and BBC, who Governor Newsome overseas. Until now he refuses to tell anyone where he obtained this information.)
- May 19th- Governor Newsom files a 242-page response to the lawsuit (fact: nowhere in the response is the nail salon allegation mentioned)
- May 22nd: The federal judge who was assigned this suit orders both sides to file closing arguments via 5-page briefs by Tuesday, May 26, at which time the judge will take into submission the case and shortly thereafter provide his ruling.
- May 26th: Prior to the judge's ruling, Governor Newsom suddenly announces the opening of hair salons and barbershops. (Governor Newsom's hasty decision to only open hair salons left behind approximately 45% of the beauty industry in the complete dark including the most qualified to reopen - ESTHETICIANS.)
Now, as for us estheticians... to start, we are in a completely different category than the rest of the beauty industry. Our knowledge of how to protect clients (and ourselves) from any communicable disease is beyond legendary. If you've never had a facial, you might not know this but wearing masks and gloves even when we have allergies is nothing new to us. Most estheticians are knowledgable, responsible, versed in biology and chemistry, with extensive knowledge in regards to sanitation. Not to mention that our field is becoming more and more sophisticated with advances in science and technology, especially when it comes to equipment! It's simply not realistic that we are governed by an agency that doesn’t even understand what we do or can keep up with the technological level we're on.
So, here we are, still closed. To make this whole situation even more ridiculous, clients are now crossing state lines to get their services (i.e. Californians traveling to Nevada). Also, as most of you know, keeping salons and clinics closed has forced many beauty professionals to go undercover, providing unregulated, in-home services increasing the risk of spreading COVID-19, and putting everyone's health in jeopardy.
Estheticians are patiently waiting for the go-ahead on when we can re-open and the agencies who are supposed to be on our side are refusing to take action and being held accountable. The health department tells us to speak to the BBC and the BBC tells us that it is up to the health department.
For now, my OLSC team has created our own set of strict rules (following the CDC) but with additional steps that we feel are imperative. This includes sophisticated UVC lights, face shields, and of course, strict social distancing measures. If you are an esthetician reading this, it’s time to demand action - like creating our own agency with attorneys and the ability to lobby. While the PBFC certainly initiated a lawsuit in the past, it was not able to do anything for us specifically.
It’s time to advocate for ourselves. In the meantime, if you’re our client reading this (or a California resident), I advise you to look into your beauty provider's protocols and see if they are in line with the CDC guidelines. At the end of the day, politics and poor hasty decisions can influence the lives of hundreds of thousands of individuals, specifically women. I urge you to join me in making our voices heard. It’s time to make a change.
Wash or wipe? It’s neither nor. Wipes can be used to remove eye makeup but they should never be used as a replacement for your deep PM cleanse.
Of course makeup wipes can look very convenient when traveling but make sure that you’re using the right one.
There is a whole other level of wipes called facialettes, it’s created for exact times when you need to clean and hydrate but it's not possible to get to your sink and cleansers. The high-quality ingredients used in this two-step cleanser and moisturizer on the go continues to treat your skin in the same manner as your anti-aging products that you left at home.
Step 1: The deep cleansing large facialette is great to deeply clean and refresh the grimmest of complexions.
Step 2: Moisturizer in another wipe- (you might ask moisturizer in a wipe? why not just moisturizer?) Because when you are on the go and you need to clean/hydrate it’s better not to use your hands. It might not be as clean as you’d like them to be. Plus, you can press the moisturizing facialette into the skin which creates more glow and circulation. Also, if you have a lot of makeup around your eyes, use step 2 to remove excess makeup while hydrating the delicate eye area.
When to use:
- Immediately after working out.
- Travel (Don’t even think about leaving home without it!)
- Always have a few in your car or purse.
- It's perfect for a PM office touch up.
- Instant skin recovery and rejuvenation
- First aid traveling treatment
- Luxurious treatment anytime, anywhere
What makes it so fabulous?
- Pomegranate seed oil
Rejuvenates, improves elasticity, high level of antioxidants
Deeply hydrates, locks moisture into the skin, instantly plumps
- Sodium Hyluronate
Attracts and holds water in skin, significantly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Sodium PCA
Binds moisture in skin, prevents moisture loss, reduces inflammation
- Willow bark extract
Balancing, toning, astringent
I’m often asked questions like "How much acid is in your product?" or "How many oils are in that serum?" While I am happy to give the percentages, this is much more complicated than just giving you a simple number. Telling you the percentages might make you feel like a scientist but you won’t actually understand what those percentages mean. The better question is "What will this do for my skin?"
Being an esthetician for what feels like forever…I have thousands of hours of experience with all skin types - I’ve seen it all! So, when I formulate, the crucial question I ask myself is "What kind of result will this have on the skin?” Sometimes I’d like strong exfoliation but equal hydrating power and sometimes I’d like the formula to be effective on acneic skin but also have detoxifying properties. In the case of acne + detoxification it could look like 1% salicylic + Ougon oil. If I wanted to focus on acne and redness it could look like 0.05% salicylic + ferulic acid.
It’s not just acids, I have overheard beauty retail buyers say "but this formula has 21 oils and this one has 18," it took everything in me not to laugh out loud! 😂
Were the 21 oils formulated to complement one another? The reparative drops that I’m formulating have 13 oils but are packed with anti-aging ingredients rarely seen mixed with oils. In case of wanting to have just a single ingredient added to your routine let's say for example that you add CBD oil, then you’d want the highest possible amount available which is approximately 1,000 mg.
With acids, you need to be cautious when it comes to certain ingredients since you might end up peeling for days or causing redness and sensitivity. So sure, you can go ahead and use 40% Mandelic acid, but why? Also, all ingredients have an optimal level for the final formulation where more doesn’t increase the results and less won’t produce desired results. And I'm not even getting started on acids pH!
The only way to judge a product is by its efficacy and what it will do once it's on your skin. My motto is to have the best and most active ingredients formulated for your skin to benefit and see results in the quickest way possible.
So, it's much less significant if a product has 3% Lactic or 20%. The bigger question is "What results do I want and do other products I use work in synergy?"
Days are shorter, nights cooler — but is your skin care still the same? When you store your summer wardrobe away, it’s a good reminder to change up your skin care regimen to help your skin through the dry winter air.
For most of us, when we hear the word acid, it conjures images of battery acid or a bright green, burning liquid that will turn you into Two-Face from Batman. Read More
Chlorine is essentially a disinfectant (think Clorox), which isn’t a big deal if you have acneic skin…BUT if your skin is dry or has any other condition, Chlorine will wreak some serious havoc. Add sun and sunblock and you’ve got a recipe for disaster. Here are a few ways to fix and fight the effects of Chlorine and summer sun in general. Read More